Posts Tagged "Skedans"

Gwaii Haanas Aboard Passing Cloud

A passing comment by a Haida Watchman last summer in Haida Gwaii started an unexpected chain of events. In answer to a question from my husband, Walter Russ said that his grandparents had been the Haida couple who guided Emily Carr on her visit to what was then known as the Queen Charlotte Islands. When this got me thinking about the iconic BC artist and the relationship between her travels and her work, the idea for a book began to take shape – Emily Carr’s BC.

At that point my itinerary didn’t include Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve, which encompasses the southern half of the Haida Gwaii archipelago and protects numerous Haida Heritage Sites that Emily painted. So a return visit topped my research list. I got a tip about a 70-foot Roué-designed (think Bluenose) schooner offering expeditions to the area. Ideal. I love sailing. Enter Russ Markel, OuterShores Expeditions and Passing Cloud.

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Haida Gwaii

Shadows cast by the mellow evening light sharply defined the ridges, rolls and peaks to the west of the ferry landing at Skidegate on Graham Island, the largest and most northerly of the 150 some islands that make up the Haida Gwaii archipelago, also known as the Queen Charlotte Islands. Driving the few kilometers into the ambitiously named Queen Charlotte City, I was immediately struck by indicators of the region’s independent spirit—a selection of roadside signs that left no doubt about local attitudes toward a northern pipeline.

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